Another Shuffle Video :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exnz3RBmyP0

:3

Some very sexy shuffling right there, I like it

Nice shuffle, Noir Souris.

Very nice! I think you can try to hardstyle

Yeah you've got confidence in your moves, looking good with the spins

Shuffling will actually make you smarter when studying and doing exams.

For instance if you stop for a few minutes every half hour or so, get out of your chair, get your eyes off the screen/book etc and shuffle for a couple of minutes, you'll increase the blood flow to your brain immediately, your increased metabolisim will deal with toxins etc in your system quicker and you combat spinal ailments which come from 'the stoop' we get when sitting for hours on end staring at a screen/book etc.

It won't make you a genius, but it will help you get there. It's like a short shuffle when needed gives you a natural energy boost, eases tension and frees up those tense muscles to let the blood flow from head to toe, a fully oxygenated bio mass ready for the task ahead.

Sadly it doesn't make study or exams any more fun than they are, if it's a dull tedious chore, you'll just get it done quicker, reward in itself

Thanks Garry, I need to let loose every now and them, and Adam I will ;D

NIce shuffling ! It's so birght though you can barely see
I want to join your hbs Noir!! I'll have my first video out next week so you can see me =)

Mwah, I slightly edited the contrast as it was darkish, but it looks brighter on youtube than it does during the process of making it. Also that'd be great! Looking forward to see your shuffle!

I know the "effect" When i was making some texts in photoshop, when i saved them in .jpg they was a lot brighter. I don't know what's the problem

Haha, I'll try and fix it :p

Adamc96 wrote:I know the "effect" When i was making some texts in photoshop, when i saved them in .jpg they was a lot brighter. I don't know what's the problem

The problem is usually how your screen is set compared to what's online.

To fix it do a test post and if it's too light online, then try adjusting your computer screen to be a bit lighter, which means you'll go darker to get what you're after and keep tweeking until your screen matches online, or a burned dvd playback, depending on what the final product platform will be.

To do the fix, You will need to set your screen levels for video, and perhaps save that parameter in your screen set up under the 'user' settings. You may find this video setting too dark for general reading etc.

To give you an idea, it took me about 2 months fiddling and posting test shots to get the set up as I liked. I'd keep tweeking after the first posts, trying different types of footage just to get the best levels. For instance going too dark just to see where that threshold was, then bringing it up a little. The different playback qualities - lo-res to hi-res 320p -720p etc will change the extremes of black and light according to the service. youtube will do it one way and others have slightly different compression outcomes.

So if it's your personal computer set the screen to the factory default setting and drop the light/dark until black looks totally black in a test shot, not grey or light black. A hard deep black. Then work up from there with your video. You will find editing much easier using the black as a reference point, it will help with chromakeying effects and your shots will match much better.

If everything is a bit dark then lighten the video levels, but leave the screen levels set to a strong dark black.
........

You need to do this as a reference setting so that what you see on your screen is what you see on youtube. You may need to control the light in your room to get an accurate setting. I have my curtains closed and just a small down light over my keyboard to do the video editing, so it's the same lighting environment each time. You can turn more lights on or open the curtain for less critical stuff, but establish a default reference point according to your eyes where you normally edit video.

You get used to it after a while and work out whether your camera settings are a bit high and over expose the lighter areas, or it's further down the supply chain when processing the image.

Generally Apple/Mac screens have a lighter default setting, which is really annoying and simply a decorative feature to make mac's look new age-y 10 years ago. It was meant mainly for printed graphics on paper CMYK and pantone printed ink settings, not the harsh sharp high contrast realities of video or RGB color standards, which were not meant for print on paper, rather to be seen on a computer/tv screen. PC/Microsoft settings are a bit darker and higher contrast mainly for screen based images, not print- although you can simply reset the screen for print on paper based image work.

The higher contrast - blacks look blacker whites look whiter, is good for critical veiwing of video, you'll spot mistakes, blurs, unmatching shots etc with the contrast high, then you can soften the whole lot afterwards to your tastes, get a misty airy feel or a dark shadowy sort of thing.

For video reference work you need to start from black being black RGB 000. When you get darker with video the dark areas turn to mud, just a blobby murky mess, HD video handles it a lot better and reproduces the dark areas with more detail, but often that's lost when it's processed and on youtube.

So in GS1 for instance I went down with the color values to the black and made the black a feature, a strong heavy background, then leaving the black set low, I highlighted the other colors and found a balance between the old video footage which had a grey black and HD footage which had a strong reference black that didn't need fixing.

The old footage instead of a washed out flatish feel, came out as strong and viberant as the new footage. And with some tweeking and colorising, it becomes difficult to tell what's 20 years old footage and whats shot yesterday on HD.

If you're using a shared computer check with the other users first. Nothing worse than having the screen settings change when you don't want them to.

Thanks a lot for this long text, i learned a lot of new things. My problem is, that i have a very, very old monitor, and it's darker a lot than the newer ones. I can set the brightness, and other stuff only with my video card's driver. But when i will make something, i want to upload, i will use my laptop, i think.

Noir Souris wrote:Mwah, I slightly edited the contrast as it was darkish, but it looks brighter on youtube than it does during the process of making it. Also that'd be great! Looking forward to see your shuffle!

I finally got a camera
I'm much better than I thought o.o I just plug for the computer, so I'll have a video up within days

Phantom Dancer wrote:

Noir Souris wrote:Mwah, I slightly edited the contrast as it was darkish, but it looks brighter on youtube than it does during the process of making it. Also that'd be great! Looking forward to see your shuffle!

I finally got a camera
I'm much better than I thought o.o I just plug for the computer, so I'll have a video up within days

WOOO!

Adamc96 wrote:Thanks a lot for this long text, i learned a lot of new things. My problem is, that i have a very, very old monitor, and it's darker a lot than the newer ones. I can set the brightness, and other stuff only with my video card's driver. But when i will make something, i want to upload, i will use my laptop, i think.

Ah yes the older moniters with the CTR (Cathode Ray Tube) have their own peculiarities, mainly depending on how many hours they have operated - in 100's of hours as the gas and stuff inside the tube fades over time and the color can go a bit wierd with magnetic fields like desk top speakers, close to the screen.

All the old footage I shot was using those moniters, because they were the state of the art in technology then in the 1990's. Flat screens were still a fantasy.

So I had to adjust all the old footage shot in 4:3 screen ratio to the new flat screens and re render them in the different widescreen screen ratio of 16:9

The principle is the same and here's a simple set up test to help control the compatibility issues,

The image below is a test pattern we normally call 'Color Bars' They have set color standards to tune your moniter. These colors are generated by pre set technical standards used for color TV's and are the same used to factory set video camera and moniters. There's lots of different types of patterns but they all include the colors (from the right side of the pic below) Blue, Red, Magenta (pink), Green, Cyan (blue green) Yellow and White ( light grey). Then black and white with various shades between. Typically we just call it RGB Red-Green-Blue as the 3 primary colors for video. You can change these color RGB channels in photoshop and most well equipt video edit programs such as Sony Vegas.

But we'll keep the tech talk for another post


If you print this out on paper at some time, when you start to film, hold the color bars close in front of the camera in the lighting conditions you are using to film. Such as outside sunny/cloudy day, inside artificial light/daylight thru a window etc.

Then when you go to edit, hold the printed out color bars next to your computer/tv screen and try to adjust the Computer/TV screen so that you get as close as you can, to the filmed color bars looking like the printed color bars.

You edit the color bar test footage out, once you've done the color balance.

Before the 1990's we had to hold a white card up for the camera to do a 'white balance' so that the filmed white card appeared the same on the CRT moniters.

Especially take note of the gray scales, if you can't distinguish between the little blocks of grey and they just look too dark or too light, you can alter the bright/dark settings on your screen to get a better setting.

You can also alter light and dark with the exposure control on your camera, but best to just leave the camera alone to start with, set on factory default and fiddle with the screen values first.